Who knew Richard Mille could be so...dignified?
Love them or hate them, you have to respect the gritty quality of Richard Mille watches.
With oversized tonneau cases made from gorgeous and unique materials, intricately skeletonized dials, and technically advanced movements full of crazy complications, the brand has found its own very modern niche in the traditional luxury watch world.
Which is exactly what makes the new RM 33-03 such a pleasant surprise. It's a Richard Mille watch, but in many ways it looks and performs very differently from a Richard Mille. I'd even dare to say it's traditional.
Time is a flat circle
The most striking thing about the RM 33-03, compared to almost every other watch currently on the brand, is the shape of its case. This watch features a more traditional round case design, the first since the limited edition RM 032 Ultimate Diver (a giant flyback chronograph) last year, which closed the RM 032 series.
But the RM 33-03 is no diver, but like its predecessor, the discontinued RM 33-02, it is a regular sports watch, closer to the Royal Oak. It even has a screw-down bezel with six exposed screws to reinforce this point.
While it abandons the brand's signature oversized, slender shape - 41.7mm diameter, 49.5mm between lugs, comfortable to wear - the case is still fascinating despite the more traditional silhouette. It has a unique three-section structure full of curves and angles, and the side hollowing design is similar to many of Richard Mille's barrel-shaped cases, and uses different finishing techniques to create rich visual interest.
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The dial is undoubtedly the most legible of the brand’s offerings. Large luminescent shark-tooth applied hour markers are placed at each hour, with luminescent Arabic numerals at 12, 3 and 9, in 18k 5N red gold. All the hour markers are mounted on titanium tracks, floating above the skeletonized dial for enhanced legibility.
The minute track is clearly engraved on the bezel, while the distracting skeletonization of the movement is confined to the dial interior to avoid affecting legibility. The large, partially skeletonized letter hands are made of red gold and echo the basic hour markers, with a large small seconds display at 6 o’clock. The only other information on the dial is an outlined date window at 4:30.
The watch is equipped with RM’s new skeletonized movement, which is far simpler in design than we have come to expect from the brand. There is no flyback chronograph or variable geometry rotor, but that doesn’t mean the movement is not excellent.
The Cal. RMXP3 is only 3.28 mm thick and its baseplate and bridges are made of lightweight grade 5 titanium. For added strength and rigidity, the baseplate is treated with Titalyt and the bridges are black PVD-coated.
The calibre’s thinness and efficiency are made possible by the bidirectional micro-rotor made of pure platinum. The movement also features extensive hand-finishing, including beveling of the steel parts and hand-polishing of the titanium bridges.
The RM 33-03 is available in two versions: one with a grade 5 titanium case and the other with an 18K red gold middle case, with the top and bottom of the case made of Richard Mille’s signature lightweight Carbon TPT. Both watches are presented on a black integrated rubber strap and come with a titanium folding strap.
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